If you ever need some good divination I have met the man who claims to have the sixth sense. This happens to be Chang, my lovely guesthouse manager and owner of the much spoiled and adored Cocker Spaniel puppy Ta Ro. Chang and I have had a good relationship while I stayed at the Emerald Guesthouse. He speaks some English and is always friendly and helpful. Definitely protective of his guests and the guesthouse.
Sadly, yesterday, after an amazing day lounging at the beach, I returned to my room to find all of my spending money gone. It may not seem like a lot in dollars but 2,000 baht (about $70) goes a long way here.
I normally bring my camera bag with me in my little shoulder bag. I keep my money folded and tucked behind my camera and this all comes with me to work. Yesterday was the first day I was leaving any money in the room and so I remember taking a careful look at it. Decided to bring all of the small bills for snacks and left two 1,000 baht notes in the camera bag. Ironically I didn't want to bring it to the beach because I was scared I would lose it! At 5pm back in the guesthouse it was gone. I was so sad and surprised because I knew that Chang would be upset. I also think that in most hotels the policy is that anything left of value in the room is not the hotel's responsibility. So I sort of assumed that it was gone and spent the evening crying to Jeremy on the phone about all of the great food and presents it could have bought.
To make a long story short this has just been a hellish day. I moved out of the Emerald this morning (check out is by noon) and wasn't able to check in to Tony Lodge (new guesthouse-I am moving there for reasons completely unrelated to the theft) until 3pm. As I was checking out of Emerald, Chang stage whispered to me "Amanda, top secret investigation, I call you later today. I know who took money. I have sixth sense. Plus I ask other cleaners and they find 2,000 baht in someone's purse. I investigate but cannot accuse now or she may be angry and not clean rooms!" I had to laugh a little imagining him more worried about having to clean some rooms himself than other guests getting robbed. But not my concern so I took off.
I, very unwisely, hit downtown Khao Lak to shop for some floaty skirts and hanging plants. I don't know what training course the vendors have all taken but for some reason they find it most reasonable to FOLLOW me (literally peering right over my sweaty shoulder) around the store. Poking things under my nose, constantly asking "where you from? what you want to buy?" and then, having the NERVE to act all angry and put out when I say "just looking, just looking". What cultural connection am I missing here? One woman actually threw down a pair of shoes when I said that I didn't have enough money and would have to come back. Just threw them down and walked away! And while the male vendors are very friendly you just have the weirdest feeling that they are laughing behind your back. I don't like it. They have obviously been in the tourist trade for too long. At least in Latin America they are smiling or laughing appreciatively-not snickering! Anyway, I went up and down the main street half asleep and ensured that my face has gone from pink to tomato red all for 1 skirt and 2 plants. Surely all overpriced. I am so glad I live in Bang Niang and not Khao Lak. The thing is is that Thai people who are just living everyday life, selling small things at the local market, etc are friendly, kind and patient. It is the ones who sell to tourists in the resort towns that scorn you and treat you like crap. Bang Niang and the towns north of here are just different. More authentic.
Ok, so back to my main story. After several hours of near heat exhaustion I no sooner move into Tony Lodge than I get a call from Chang asking if I can come over to Emerald right away. When I arrive he invites me to sit at a little table, sort of in the half light of an office several doors away from the Emerald. There is food on the table and he and one of the cleaning girls are sitting there in the shadows. Money is layed out in front of her. All very creapy. I think Chang liked the idea of setting the scene. So instead of giving me a run down on what has happened he invites me to eat. So I chow down nervously on fried bananas and try not to make eye contact with anyone. Suddenly I am struck with the VERY THAI need for non-confrontation. Me! Laura Kinzel can you believe it? Well, CHANG is Chinese Thai and apparently has no fear of confrontation. He starts right in by asking if I would recognize my money if I saw it. What a funny way of deciding innocence or guilt. Can I recognize 2,000 baht. hahaha. Of course, there it is, sitting all folded up, JUST the way I keep it in my camera bag, next to the rest of the money from the girl's wallet which is nice and flat. We go through a little inquisition with Chang asking me to identify how I fold my money-demonstrating it over and over to the girl, if I recognize the little number mark on one of the bills (yes, it was put there by C-TRAC when they gave the money to me) and on and on. Triumphantly he harangues her ( I later find out he is threatening that I will call the police on her which is absolutely not true!) She cries but does not capitulate. He then brings out the owner's wife who gives a long lecture in Thai. Girl cries more. Doesn't say much at all. I feel HORRIBLE. Avoid looking at anyone, hunch small in my seat. It was so against anything I have seen thus far in the Thai culture!
Finally the girl was forced to hand me the money and apologize. I gave her a very sincere May Pen Ray (I forgive you/don't worry about it) and she ran off.
This finale was exactly what Chang was hoping for and he happily spent the next 20 minutes telling me all about how he has the sixth sense ("yes, don't you know Amanda? The sixth sense. I have it. Didn't Jessica or one of the others from C-TRAC tell you? I always know. I have sixth sense for long time.") He then told me that yes, he threatened the police (he found this tactic to be very scary and it was apparently what brought the whole thing to a conclusion.) He also told her that she has damaged his reputation (very harsh thing to say in Thailand) and on and on.
I was happy to just take the money and leave. Very much wishing I had not had to sit in on the inquisition.
So, I live in a small town. My internet cafe and new home are just down the street from the Emerald. So in a strange twist the girl saw me drive away to the internet place and as I was sitting down to type she came in and started talking to me in Thai. Someone translated for me. She was asking if I was writing an email home about everything. I said yes. She nodded acceptingly and then just said goodbye and walked out. Chang apparently also told her that I am married, here to work for a non-profit, and that I am not a tourist and actually need my money to live. She left without saying anything else and I certainly didn't know what to say. I don't know if now we have made peace. I am not sure what happened really. But to be honest, I do feel bad for her. She's now lost her job. I tried to tell Chang that she might have needed the money for something but he is a very good and typical Thai manager and already knows all about her life and even how much she has in the bank (this is common for an employer to be also sort of a mentor) and assured me that she doesn't need the money or if she did she could have asked him for it. So I guess she may just be a bad egg.... hard to say. I really do feel sad for her though.
And now my day is done and it really felt exhausting. Every day here is exhausting because of both the heat and the sort of long-drawn out way things get done. BUT, despite everything today I am still really glad to be here and excited about the work and my team and the people I have met so far. It is fun to live in a small town! I can get around easily, I know where people live, I can walk to the beach. I think that this life is just what I was craving this past year in DC.
I wish I had something more fascinating to write about. I know that some of you reading this are plant lovers and I wish you were here. I bought the most beautiful huge potted orchid today as well as a hanging plant that grows out of a piece of bark. Both for under $12 if you can believe it! And I probably paid too much. But my new room is really pretty and the plants fit right in. Korana-maybe some advice on caring for an orchid? The plant people said lots of things in Thai that I'm assuming were feeding and care instructions....oops.
Love from Bang Niang.
Sadly, yesterday, after an amazing day lounging at the beach, I returned to my room to find all of my spending money gone. It may not seem like a lot in dollars but 2,000 baht (about $70) goes a long way here.I normally bring my camera bag with me in my little shoulder bag. I keep my money folded and tucked behind my camera and this all comes with me to work. Yesterday was the first day I was leaving any money in the room and so I remember taking a careful look at it. Decided to bring all of the small bills for snacks and left two 1,000 baht notes in the camera bag. Ironically I didn't want to bring it to the beach because I was scared I would lose it! At 5pm back in the guesthouse it was gone. I was so sad and surprised because I knew that Chang would be upset. I also think that in most hotels the policy is that anything left of value in the room is not the hotel's responsibility. So I sort of assumed that it was gone and spent the evening crying to Jeremy on the phone about all of the great food and presents it could have bought.
To make a long story short this has just been a hellish day. I moved out of the Emerald this morning (check out is by noon) and wasn't able to check in to Tony Lodge (new guesthouse-I am moving there for reasons completely unrelated to the theft) until 3pm. As I was checking out of Emerald, Chang stage whispered to me "Amanda, top secret investigation, I call you later today. I know who took money. I have sixth sense. Plus I ask other cleaners and they find 2,000 baht in someone's purse. I investigate but cannot accuse now or she may be angry and not clean rooms!" I had to laugh a little imagining him more worried about having to clean some rooms himself than other guests getting robbed. But not my concern so I took off.
I, very unwisely, hit downtown Khao Lak to shop for some floaty skirts and hanging plants. I don't know what training course the vendors have all taken but for some reason they find it most reasonable to FOLLOW me (literally peering right over my sweaty shoulder) around the store. Poking things under my nose, constantly asking "where you from? what you want to buy?" and then, having the NERVE to act all angry and put out when I say "just looking, just looking". What cultural connection am I missing here? One woman actually threw down a pair of shoes when I said that I didn't have enough money and would have to come back. Just threw them down and walked away! And while the male vendors are very friendly you just have the weirdest feeling that they are laughing behind your back. I don't like it. They have obviously been in the tourist trade for too long. At least in Latin America they are smiling or laughing appreciatively-not snickering! Anyway, I went up and down the main street half asleep and ensured that my face has gone from pink to tomato red all for 1 skirt and 2 plants. Surely all overpriced. I am so glad I live in Bang Niang and not Khao Lak. The thing is is that Thai people who are just living everyday life, selling small things at the local market, etc are friendly, kind and patient. It is the ones who sell to tourists in the resort towns that scorn you and treat you like crap. Bang Niang and the towns north of here are just different. More authentic.
Ok, so back to my main story. After several hours of near heat exhaustion I no sooner move into Tony Lodge than I get a call from Chang asking if I can come over to Emerald right away. When I arrive he invites me to sit at a little table, sort of in the half light of an office several doors away from the Emerald. There is food on the table and he and one of the cleaning girls are sitting there in the shadows. Money is layed out in front of her. All very creapy. I think Chang liked the idea of setting the scene. So instead of giving me a run down on what has happened he invites me to eat. So I chow down nervously on fried bananas and try not to make eye contact with anyone. Suddenly I am struck with the VERY THAI need for non-confrontation. Me! Laura Kinzel can you believe it? Well, CHANG is Chinese Thai and apparently has no fear of confrontation. He starts right in by asking if I would recognize my money if I saw it. What a funny way of deciding innocence or guilt. Can I recognize 2,000 baht. hahaha. Of course, there it is, sitting all folded up, JUST the way I keep it in my camera bag, next to the rest of the money from the girl's wallet which is nice and flat. We go through a little inquisition with Chang asking me to identify how I fold my money-demonstrating it over and over to the girl, if I recognize the little number mark on one of the bills (yes, it was put there by C-TRAC when they gave the money to me) and on and on. Triumphantly he harangues her ( I later find out he is threatening that I will call the police on her which is absolutely not true!) She cries but does not capitulate. He then brings out the owner's wife who gives a long lecture in Thai. Girl cries more. Doesn't say much at all. I feel HORRIBLE. Avoid looking at anyone, hunch small in my seat. It was so against anything I have seen thus far in the Thai culture!
Finally the girl was forced to hand me the money and apologize. I gave her a very sincere May Pen Ray (I forgive you/don't worry about it) and she ran off.
This finale was exactly what Chang was hoping for and he happily spent the next 20 minutes telling me all about how he has the sixth sense ("yes, don't you know Amanda? The sixth sense. I have it. Didn't Jessica or one of the others from C-TRAC tell you? I always know. I have sixth sense for long time.") He then told me that yes, he threatened the police (he found this tactic to be very scary and it was apparently what brought the whole thing to a conclusion.) He also told her that she has damaged his reputation (very harsh thing to say in Thailand) and on and on.
I was happy to just take the money and leave. Very much wishing I had not had to sit in on the inquisition.
So, I live in a small town. My internet cafe and new home are just down the street from the Emerald. So in a strange twist the girl saw me drive away to the internet place and as I was sitting down to type she came in and started talking to me in Thai. Someone translated for me. She was asking if I was writing an email home about everything. I said yes. She nodded acceptingly and then just said goodbye and walked out. Chang apparently also told her that I am married, here to work for a non-profit, and that I am not a tourist and actually need my money to live. She left without saying anything else and I certainly didn't know what to say. I don't know if now we have made peace. I am not sure what happened really. But to be honest, I do feel bad for her. She's now lost her job. I tried to tell Chang that she might have needed the money for something but he is a very good and typical Thai manager and already knows all about her life and even how much she has in the bank (this is common for an employer to be also sort of a mentor) and assured me that she doesn't need the money or if she did she could have asked him for it. So I guess she may just be a bad egg.... hard to say. I really do feel sad for her though.
And now my day is done and it really felt exhausting. Every day here is exhausting because of both the heat and the sort of long-drawn out way things get done. BUT, despite everything today I am still really glad to be here and excited about the work and my team and the people I have met so far. It is fun to live in a small town! I can get around easily, I know where people live, I can walk to the beach. I think that this life is just what I was craving this past year in DC.
I wish I had something more fascinating to write about. I know that some of you reading this are plant lovers and I wish you were here. I bought the most beautiful huge potted orchid today as well as a hanging plant that grows out of a piece of bark. Both for under $12 if you can believe it! And I probably paid too much. But my new room is really pretty and the plants fit right in. Korana-maybe some advice on caring for an orchid? The plant people said lots of things in Thai that I'm assuming were feeding and care instructions....oops.
Love from Bang Niang.
1 comment:
Hi honey
Well the inquistion sounds hideous, but I'm so glad you sound like you are enjoying your life there. It certainly sounds blissful compared to the rain and gales here and the greyness of life in London! Most exciting trip on my horizon is going to Cardiff....oh the thrill! Anyway, will write a proper e-mail soon!
lots, of love, c. xx
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